A Tribute to Anchovies

I already know what you are thinking--Anchovies?  Gross.  Seems to be the predominant reaction when anchovies are mentioned, and a quick Google search confirmed my suspicion that anchovies are, indeed, American's least favorite pizza topping.  But I'm here to tell you that anchovies can be quite delicious and if prepared correctly they lend the resultant dish an incredible richness without the uber-fishy saltiness that they are usually maligned for.  So let's hope for a minute that you are open enough to try something, just once, made with anchovies.  Can I change your mind?

I came across this recipe yesterday as I thumbed through one of the more recent issues of Bon Appetit over my morning bowl of Cheerios.  I was craving pasta (yes, it was breakfast, but I am always already planning dinner before I've started breakfast) and had noted the day before that we had no fewer than a half dozen tins of anchovies in the pantry.   Even though I have always liked anchovies well enough, despite some questionable memories of a pizza buffet in Panama City, Florida with my bargain-loving (and anchovy-loving) grandparents, I will admit to being a bit skeptical of this recipe and what would happen when six whole anchovy fillets were added to a bowl of pasta.  My skepticism was overcome; however, by the desire to try a new and different-than-usual recipe, as well as the impetus to use up at least one of those lingering tins.

As it turns out, something strange and mysterious happens when anchovies are cooked with breadcrumbs and added to pasta.  Something very deliciously strange and mysterious.  Essentially all trace of fishiness disappears, imparting the pasta with a slight (but not overwhelming) saltiness, with a depth that alludes to, but is not at all, fishy.  I would almost bet that you could serve this dish to someone and they would never know it contained anchovies, until of course you had to confess that you fed them anchovies, destroying the ruse entirely and perhaps really upsetting someone who thinks that they don't like anchovies. 

For those of you who still aren't on board with the anchovies, there are a few other reasons to love this recipe.  First of all, it's simple and quick, perfect for a weeknight.  Second, who doesn't love roasted cherry tomatoes (my interpretation of 'baby heirloom tomatoes')? Third, the breadcrumbs are perfectly garlicky and breadcrumbs added to pasta, while perhaps a tad on the carb-heavy side, are wonderful.  And last, the addition of fresh basil (in my case, from the garden!) is the ultimate reminder of the wonders of summertime cooking.

This serves four, but there were no leftovers.  I urge you, give anchovies another chance.

Linguine with Baby Heirloom Tomatoes and Anchovy Breadcrumbs
From Bon Appetit/epicurious.com, with a few small modifications
Serves 4

8 ounces linguine
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
6 anchovy fillets, mashed to paste with 1 teaspoon oil from can
3 garlic cloves, pressed, divided
1 cup coarse fresh breadcrumbs made from crustless bread (use what you have on hand)
1 1-pound container baby heirloom tomatoes or cherry tomatoes (I used a 1-pint container)
1 cup thinly sliced fresh basil (I used 1/2 of that) 
1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Cook linguine until just tender. Drain, reserving 1 cup cooking liquid.

Heat 1 1/2 tablespoons olive oil in large skillet over medium heat. Add anchovies and 2 pressed garlic cloves, then breadcrumbs. Cook breadcrumbs until golden, about 5 minutes. Scrape crumbs onto plate and cool.

Heat remaining 1 1/2 tablespoons oil in same skillet over medium heat. Add tomatoes and remaining garlic clove. Cover; cook until tomatoes begin to break down, 3 to 4 minutes. Using fork, crush 3/4 of tomatoes [The original recipe called for crushing 1/4 of the cherry tomatoes during cooking.  The consensus was that the dish would be even better if more of them are crushed, I've amended the recipe to reflect that but have not tried it].  Add pasta, basil, cheese, and 1/2 cup reserved cooking liquid to tomatoes. Toss, adding more liquid if dry. Mix in half of crumbs. Season pasta with salt and pepper.

Transfer pasta to serving dish; top with remaining breadcrumbs and serve.